Many of the world’s religions, are founded on various myths and beliefs, which may have certain historical or factual evidence, but often cannot be entirely supported on these. It is the believer’s faith perhaps that makes history out of this myth and gives it additional support in the form of evidence gathered from stories, folklore etc. Some of the newer religions however are less dependent on myth, as the lives of the founders are relatively better documented. While I am no expert, I always thought a religion like Sikhism, with a known founder , Guru Nanak, would therefore be more fact based, as opposed to say, Hinduism or Christianity. (Yes, Christ is known, but Christianity nevertheless is based on many unverifiable myths that need some degree of faith to be justified).
Finding the footprints of Guru Nanak, in North Sikkim then, along with a myth right out of Hindu or Buddhist tales was a revelation to me, that perhaps every religion will make its own myths along the way. Chungthang is a small town in North Sikkim, perhaps best known as a halt for folks heading on to the more picteresque and touristed areas of Lachung or Yumthang. We halted here in the evening, and with no specific “sight-seeing” to do, set out for a walk around the small town. Being February and off-season, there were practically no other visitors and walking around rather aimlessly, we came to some signs indicating the presence of a Gurudwara. Intrigued by this, we followed these, until we came to a small rock cordoned off, with a gurudwara nearby.
The caretaker priest at the Gurudwara, a most welcoming person, then proceeded to tell us the story of the place. The tale went, that Guru Nanak, on one of his journeys along with his disciples, had come across this place and vanquished two demons here before proceeding. The footprints of that battle were believed to be still left on that cordoned off rock. What was strange was the presence of other Buddhist relics in the place, such as a large Buddhist prayer wheel. These seemed much older, while the Gurudwara and pictures of Guru Nanak which had been placed around looked obviously newer.
The priest was extremely sincere but it was all very puzzling. He even mentioned that Chungthang derived from the Punjabi, “Changa sthan” or good place, which Guru Nanak had bestowed on it. This did seem somewhat farfetched. On our return to Gangtok, at the homestay where we were, the owner told us, a little resentfully, that it was actually Guru Rinpoche, the Buddhist master, who had passed through Chungthang, and that this myth had been taken over and ascribed to Guru Nanak, with the aid of the Indian army which has a base there. Its possible ofcourse that the army would be far more conversant with Sikhism than Buddhism. Online resources do indicate Guru Nanak’s visit to Sikkim, though none of them are authoritative sources, and perhaps many derived from people visiting Chungthang themselves. On the other hand, it is known that Guru Nanak did undertake a number of such journeys, though I doubt Sikhism would include tales of Nanak-ji fighting demons?
The best explanation I could think of was that the earlier myth of Guru Rinpoche fighting the demons at Chungthang may have merged with the tale of Guru Nanak’s visit there to create this rather intriguing story !
March 28, 2007 at 8:49 am
hey- i heard this in Bhutan as well- Guru Rinpoche and the legends- so many of them
April 4, 2007 at 12:06 am
These myths are mostly around the janmasakhis, stories that are historically unproven and were circulated after Nanak’s death. I also understand that Guru Nanak was also called Guru Rinpoche. You may like to see this post.
April 4, 2007 at 11:11 am
Tks. I did go through that. But I always thought the legend of Guru Padmasambhava predated Sikhism ?
April 5, 2007 at 12:38 pm
Hi!Did you go to Nathu- la pass and see the war memorial?They had an interesting ghost story about a fallen soldier.
We went to Yumthang valley, it was SO breathtaking!
April 6, 2007 at 5:02 am
Akka – welcome ! We did go to Nathu la and even had lunch at the army langar near the temple for the fallen soldier….it was yummy ! (Free food with loads of spice and oil at that freezing altitude…heavenly..)
May 20, 2007 at 5:54 pm
A few years ago en route to Lachen i came across this place almost as if led by a Higher power. ( Well i am a sikh )
I dont know the real history, but further to what u mention, Guru Nanak did undertake 4 major journeys called ‘udasis’ and one of these was to the east, during which he is believed to have visited this part of sikkim including Lachen and Guru Dongmar Lake. He is known as ‘Nanak Lama’ to the local Buddhists. At Lachen Monastery they have a record of his visit.
I was really surprised when a local buddhist in Lachen came to me and through sign language communicated to me that how their ‘Nanak Lama’ and our ‘Guru Nanak’ are the same. For me it is an indescribable experience to meet a stranger in a strange land and be greeted with familiarity and shared respect of what till then to me was ‘our’ Guru.
Yes the Gurudwara there is built by the Army, (and i guess they run it as a ‘Sarva Dharma Sthal’ ).. which is amazing. That would explain the newer building and pictures etc.
I know this doesnt prove Guru Nanak’s visit to this amazing place, however i think it is enough for you to maybe tone down ur skepticism.